Beet Greens and Feta Pasta

Bring a large pot of water to a boil while you stem the greens and wash the leaves in 2 rinses of water. When the water comes to a boil, add 1 tablespoon of salt and the greens. Blanch for 2 minutes, until tender. Transfer immediately to a bowl of ice water, then drain and squeeze the water out from its leaves. Chop coarsely.

Heat the oil over medium heat in a large, heavy nonstick skillet. Add the garlic and hot red pepper flakes (if using) and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant and translucent, 30 to 60 seconds. Stir in the greens. Stir for a couple of minutes, until the greens are nicely seasoned with garlic and oil. Season with salt and pepper, remove from the heat, and serve.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta according to the package directions. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.

Return the pasta to the pot and place over low heat. Add the reserved pasta water and the beet green mixture, then sprinkle in the crumbled feta. Stir until thoroughly combined and heated through. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed.

Beverage pairing: Mancini Vermentino di Gallura, Italy. Strong flavors of greens, salt, and sharp cheese need a white wine that can hold its own. Vermentino from the island of Sardinia matches the pasta note for note while bringing citrus and dried herb flavors to the occasion.